I struggled in extreme heat to unlock the secrets of the city
After a bumpy start, I realized if I was going to learn Castelo Branco’s secrets, I was going to have to time my adventures around the extreme heat of the day.
Early Out Before the Nuclear Heat Descends
My first morning in Castelo Branco, I got an early start and headed out for my morning galão, before the heat reached its usual daily high of 105 degrees fahrenheit, suffocating the town.
I spotted a café near the cathedral with tables outside. It looked a little worse for the wear which is a sure sign that all the locals come here. I walked in and found a woman in her early 30s working behind the counter in place of the usual gruff old man or woman. These old proprietors know all the secrets of everyone in town as they spend their days gossiping with and about the patrons. This woman, while she chatted a bit with the locals, minded her own business, fulfilling orders, making coffees and taking payments.
She spoke to me in Portuguese and could understand my limited responses, which always brings me joy. As I waited for her to make my coffee drink, I noticed the café had the very rare bar stools along with a large TV showing football highlights. There was one brave old man seated at a table, withstanding the even warmer temperatures inside as he drank a glass of red wine to get his day started.
After collecting my galão, I headed outside to find a seat. The many tables offered options for dealing with the rising sun. There were tables covered with umbrellas while others were afforded some shade from trees overhead. Some were completely exposed, soon to be a fire risk as the sun rose in the sky.
The men of the neighborhood were scattered about, some sitting alone having an espresso while reading the paper and others enjoying a morning Sagres with friends while scratching lottery cards. A family with a cute toddler tried to encourage their little girl to eat her breakfast pastry but despite commendable efforts, were not having much luck.
My love of this café was instant. Usually I try a few before deciding on my regular morning spot but there was to be no cheating on this place. I would be there every morning.
Trying to Find the Rhythm of Castelo Branco
After my morning galão, I would rush home to escape the rapidly increasing temperatures. The heat just sucked the life out of you. I used to love going out for an afternoon wander and maybe working a bit in a café. Not here in August. It’s impossible. You’d have to walk around with a couple of liters of water strapped to your back and a tube running to your mouth that allowed you to continuously suck water into your body so you would not incinerate.
It’s probably a safe bet that there are no babies born here in April/May.
One night as the temperatures had cooled a bit, I headed out to a craft beer place I’d read about. Usually, my drink of choice is red wine but this was definitely a good time to try the cold local brews.
The bar had a fairly minimalistic decor, with two picnic style tables inside and a few outside scattered randomly around the tiny square. It was not deathly hot inside so I chose to sit there as it gave me a better chance to meet some of the locals. I began to chat with the young girl, Anya, who worked there. We exchanged the usual background info, her a student, me a cranky traveler, and then she gave me tips on places to go in town. At the top of her list and a place she spoke enthusiastically about, was a popular place for hot dogs. Okay, sure. I love a good dog. I made a mental note to track down these hot dogs.
In Search of a Locals Experience
When Anya asked why I came to Castelo Branco, I explained that it seemed off the typical tourist route. I wanted to explore life in a town that was less likely to attract many of the foreigners that are moving here daily in hoards. I was searching for a more authentic experience like I had when I first came to Portugal in 2012.
Anya explained that while Castelo Branco may have fewer foreigners in comparison to other areas, it definitely has its share. She went on to explain that Castelo Branco is one of the country’s poorer towns. The foreigners coming in and buying up places for far more than a Portuguese citizen could afford and in general, causing rising prices in the town, have created ill will between the locals and the immigrants.
I always hate hearing this. It makes me sad. I love the Portugal of the past and while I know things change, surely they can change in a way that respects the people that have made this their home for generations.
I wonder how these immigrants would react if…
Forcing Myself to Explore
As my time in Castelo Branco was drawing to an end, I forced myself to explore a bit further out than I usually ventured in the evenings. This brought me to Nina’s Hot Dogs one evening, the place Anya had recommended to me. As I walked up, I found the door open but the shop was empty. I soon realized that Nina was socializing with her customers seated at the tables outside.
Nina greeted me, asking my name and what brought me to Castelo Branco. In return for my story, she told me hers. She moved here from Philadelphia and opened this tiny hot dog shop, which was barely big enough for the counter behind which she prepared her “gourmet hot dogs”. Nina was in no hurry to take my order as she was tending to her “mayoral” duties. After introducing me to her very gentle dog, Nina introduced me to Denis, a local man who was a regular at Nina’s. He was happy to have me join him at his table.
Mayoral duties complete, Nina was ready to take my dog order. She made some suggestions but of course, I ordered the New Yorker which had German sauerkraut, yellow mustard, Polish pickles, and cheddar cheese. As she headed inside to make my hot dog, Denis and I chatted about life in Castelo Branco.
Opening a hot dog shop was quite brilliant on Nina’s part. The Portuguese people LOVE hot dogs. There are entire sections of the grocery stores dedicated to them although I have yet to delve into what makes the various offerings different from one another. Nina's were “fancy” hot dogs, and much better than what Portuguese folks typically eat according to Anya. However, Nina keeps her rates reasonable, bundling a drink in the price and piling on the toppings of your choice.
“The Office of the Mayor” In Castelo Branco
I watched others come and go, stopping for just a coffee or a beer. Nina didn’t mind. Welcome all! Have a seat! She would come out and make introductions if someone new like me arrived and make sure they were not sitting alone. I felt like I was sitting in Nina’s living room, surrounded by friends while she made us all dinner in her kitchen.
When Nina brought out my hot dog, I mentioned that Anya at the craft beer bar had recommended both Nina and her hot dogs. When she heard Anya’s name, her face lit up. “Why I haven’t seen her in so long! She is such a sweetheart. I must get back over there soon. Please give her my best wishes.” I promised that I would.
When it was time to go check out the pub nearby to see if I could watch that evening’s football game, I told Nina I’d come by tomorrow on my last day before I had to leave Castelo Branco. She smiled and said, “Well just in case you don’t.” and gave me a big hug, explaining that she really admired what I was doing as a single female and wished me good times ahead.
Showing Respect for The Locals
If you move to a new place and show respect for the local way of life while introducing them to some of the best of yours, this to me is the best possible outcome. Nina is the perfect example of this. She didn’t come to Castelo Branco and open a Philly cheesesteak shop, although the locals might like that on the menu if they gave it a try. She took the beloved hot dogs of Portugal and added her own flair. And they love it. And her.
Changing My Mind about Castelo Branco
A few days into my week in Castelo Branco, I was not interested at all in the town. It is not a place that charms you with its beauty. Sure, it has the obligatory castle and cathedral but I cannot imagine any photographers flocking here anytime soon to capture images of the characteristic streets.
While not all of the towns I visit are likely to be places I’ll end up wanting to live, I enjoy learning about life in them. I often see in tourists' books, the main square, often with the biggest church, described as the “heart of the city”. Well, I would disagree with that. The heart of a city is in the places its residents frequent. The places they go every day. The markets they pop into for groceries. The cafés where they socialize. The restaurants where they dine. Where they go to splurge on a gourmet hot dog.
These are the heart of cities and towns. These are the places I always seek to find.
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I hope to make it back to Castelo Branco one day. Nina’s will be my first stop.
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